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Alishan area 阿里山

Our favourite place in Taiwan: tea-covered hills between 1,000 and 2,000 m, with the Yushan peaks as a backdrop.

Vistas from Shizhuo
Vistas from Shizhuo

The Alishan area, stretching from Chiayi in the west all the way to the Yushan peak you just passed, is without any doubt our favourite place in Taiwan. Its location in the mountains between 1,000 and 2,000 m altitude makes for not just beautiful views, but also a perfect hideout from hot weather. The area offers the country's most spectacular views of tea-covered hills against the backdrop of the various peaks of the Yushan mountain ridge.

Alishan offers amazing hiking routes, both easier, cultivated ones and more advanced off-road options. Cycling on its remote mountain roads is simply stunning. We advise staying a few days in the area, picking from these outdoor activities.

Boardwalks on the Mist, Cloud and Tea routes (left), and views of tea fields from Shizhuo (right)
Boardwalks on the Mist, Cloud and Tea routes (left), and views of tea fields from Shizhuo (right)
Boardwalks on the Mist, Cloud and Tea routes (left), and views of tea fields from Shizhuo (right)

Things to do

HikeHiking trails

From Shizhuo, a few curated, well-signed hiking routes you can complete within a few hours, over tea fields and well-maintained boardwalks through thick forest. Equally nice routes start and finish at Fenqihu. Seasoned hikers may like full-day or multi-day routes like the Tefuye Historic Trail 特富野步道, or hikes along the old mountain railways.

Cycling loops
RideCycling loops

The area is covered with off-the-beaten-track mountain roads, so you can easily create a route of your preferred length and intensity. A disproportionate amount of climbing awaits, but that's what you came for, right?

VillageFenqihu 奮起湖

Very crowded by day, when trains full of tourists stop here on the Alishan Forest Railway. Famous for its bento boxes 便當 biàndāng. Well connected by public transport to sights and hikes, making it a good place to stay.

Alishan Forest Park
ParkAlishan Forest Park

At 2,400 m, the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area 阿里山國家森林遊樂區 is partly a tourist trap with cheesy landmarks, but also a great gateway to longer hikes over boardwalks, stairs and paths. We liked climbing to the Datashan lookout platform 大塔山觀景台 at 2,660 m.

TrainAlishan Forest Railway

Our guilty pleasure: the spectacular Alishan Forest Railway 阿里山森林鐵路, from Chiayi up to the Forest Park. This wobbly little train takes an unimaginable route along mountain ridges, through tunnels and spirals, to tiny remote stations. Book well in advance; no bikes allowed.

Our two-day tip

Leave your bikes at your hotel in Chiayi, take the train all the way up (with a bento lunch stop in Fenqihu), hike in the afternoon, stay at the forest park's base, hike again the next day and take one of the many buses back down to Chiayi.

The Alishan Forest Railway map with its spiral up Dulishan, a vista at a midway station, the view from the window, and the end-of-the-line station in Alishan Forest Park
The Alishan Forest Railway map with its spiral up Dulishan, a vista at a midway station, the view from the window, and the end-of-the-line station in Alishan Forest Park
The Alishan Forest Railway map with its spiral up Dulishan, a vista at a midway station, the view from the window, and the end-of-the-line station in Alishan Forest Park
The Alishan Forest Railway map with its spiral up Dulishan, a vista at a midway station, the view from the window, and the end-of-the-line station in Alishan Forest Park
The Alishan Forest Railway map with its spiral up Dulishan, a vista at a midway station, the view from the window, and the end-of-the-line station in Alishan Forest Park

As we're working on extending this guide with more hiking intel, refer to more expert guides for the best hiking experience here.